After Installing New Brake Pads, Don’t Get Careless: 3 Essentials
New pads are a starting point, not the end. To keep the braking system quiet, powerful, and reliable, complete these three essentials—then maintain good habits.
Резюме：
After pad replacement, you need more than a test drive. Lightly chamfer and edge the pad to match existing rotor grooves, verify brake fluid level and condition, and bed the pads with controlled stops to build a stable transfer layer. Avoid hard, sustained braking in the first 300–500 km. Regular inspections of hardware, slide pins, and rotor surface keep noise down and braking consistent.
- Why: Old pads and rotors develop complementary wear patterns. Fresh pads pressed against a rotor with existing grooves may not contact evenly, which can cause squeal, hotspots, and longer stopping distance at first.
- What to do:
- Ensure pads have proper leading/trailing chamfers.
- Lightly edge (break) the perimeter of the friction surface so the new pad settles smoothly into the rotor’s existing topography.
- Verify shims and anti-rattle hardware are seated correctly; lubricate slide pins/abutments with high-temp brake grease.
- Driving tip: For the first 300–500 km, avoid panic stops and long, light dragging. Use progressive pedal pressure so contact area increases evenly.
2) Check Brake Fluid Level—and Condition
- Level: After pushing caliper pistons back, reservoir levels can change. Set the fluid between MIN and MAX with the correct spec (DOT 3/4/5.1 as required).
- Condition: Dark/ cloudy fluid → flush. Moisture lowers boiling point and invites fade and soft pedal.
- Leaks/air: If pedal is spongy or improves after pumping, bleed the system and inspect for leaks or swollen hoses.
3) Bed (Burnish) the Pads Properly
- Goal: Create a uniform transfer layer on the rotor for stable friction (μ), less noise, and longer life.
- Typical bedding routine (follow pad maker’s guidance):
- 8–10 moderate decelerations from ~60→20 km/h with cool-down in between (no full stop holds).
- 3–4 firm decelerations from ~80→30 km/h, again with airflow cool-down.
- Park to air-cool; avoid keeping the pedal pressed on hot rotors.
- Result: Reduced glazing, less NVH, and consistent pedal feel.
Extra Good Habits (Save Time, Money, and Noise)
- Inspect pad thickness/evenness at each tire rotation (~10–12k km).
- Check rotor runout/thickness variation; resurface/replace if out of spec.
- Keep tire pressure correct and wheels torqued to spec to prevent rotor distortion.
- After rain or washing, a few light stops will clear moisture film and surface rust.
Quick Post-Installation Checklist
- Pads chamfered and edges lightly broken ✔
- Shims/clips installed; slide pins free & lubricated ✔
- Fluid at correct level/spec; no leaks/air; pedal firm ✔
- Bedding drive completed; no long pedal holds when hot ✔
- No abnormal noise/pull/shake on road test ✔
FAQs
Q1: Do I really need to chamfer and edge new pads?
Yes. Proper chamfers and a light edge break help the pad “match” the existing rotor surface, reducing early noise and improving contact.
Q2: Why avoid hard stops right away?
Uneven, high-energy stops can hot-spot new pads and glaze rotors before a stable transfer layer forms.
Q3: My fluid is near MAX after pad change—is that OK?
Slightly below MAX is ideal. If it’s at or above MAX, adjust. Always use the manufacturer-specified fluid.
Q4: How soon should I recheck the brakes?
After 100–200 km, verify pad seating, hardware torque, fluid level, and listen for abnormal noises.
Want quiet, reliable braking from day one? Contact Baiyun Brake for duty-matched pad compounds, bedding guidance, and fitment sheets（OEM/ODM · ECE R90 · TÜV）.
